The more bridal gowns change, the more they stay the same.
Carolina Herrera, who has designed wedding gowns since 1986, says that brides
today come to her with the idea that they want to be different, more
fashion-forward. They ask for dresses with uneven hems, or say they want bold
colors, even black or red.
But when the big day comes, they’re wearing a white princess gown, complete
with veil, train and high-heeled shoes, just like their mothers did.
“How different can a bride really be?” Herrera wonders aloud.
(A bride-to-be also usually comes to the first fitting saying her future
husband prefers her hair long and flowing, but that usually changes, too,
Herrera says with a laugh. Many brides go down the aisle with their hair up in
Cinderella-style chignons.)
It’s much more important for a bride to look and feel her best than to look
cutting edge, Herrera says.
“There are so many things a bridal gown has to be: The dress has to be
special, white, innocent and traditional,” she says. “And I don’t believe a
bride should be too sexy. ... But there’s also a lot of fantasy.”
Such restrictions don’t leave a lot of room on the corseted bodice for design
innovation.
The plus side is that bridal gowns generally don’t fall victim to fashion
trends — styles change too slowly to ever be in or out.
Bridal fashion doesn’t have to be stale, though. Dress shapes can change —
strapless has become a top choice, for example — and there are always new
embellishments. The bows, embroidery or lace that decorate bridal gowns wouldn’t
look right on most other evening gowns.
“There shouldn’t be a ‘trend’ in bridal,” Herrera says. “It should be an
evolution.”
One subtle touch that has become popular in recent years is pastel trims,
such as a sash or some fabric flowers in a blush pink or light green. Herrera’s
upcoming spring collection features a delicate eyelet gown with sage green
grosgrain ribbons, inspired by 18th century French gardens.
Los Angeles-based designer Monique Lhuillier is going one step farther next
season: She’s adding blush- and latte-colored dresses.
“I’ve been doing bridal for a while. The silhouettes change but only
slightly. I wanted to try something new,” Lhuillier says.
But she quickly adds, “They’re not shocking. I’d call it ‘barely there’
color. They’re for a girl who is up to date on fashion, the girl who wants to
take her wedding to the next level.”
How will they know when they find the right gown?
“You feel it,” she says. “If you don’t feel it, don’t buy it. You should glow
in the gown.”