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Couples opt to spend more for jewelry
ASSOCIATED PRESS
No matter what they say about September 2001 bringing on an era of restraint and sacrifice, wedding couples are not scrimping on the engagement and wedding jewelry.
Diamond engagement ring sales were up more than 19 percent over average in September and 17 percent more in October, according to a survey of U.S. retail jewelers by the industry groups Jewelers of America and the Diamond Information Center.
What's more, couples are becoming more adventuresome in their choices, with unusual modern designs, such as diamond bands and engagement rings with flexible settings -- the rings bend and have movable link settings. And they're choosing traditional types that have been refreshed with new looks, according to the industry.
More of the choices echo the looks of the traditional anniversary band. "New styles of rings that feature diamonds in distinct bezel settings surrounding the band are growing in popularity," says Shaye Strager, a jewelry stylist and trends forecaster.
- Examples of the new flexible rings are found in Piero Milano's Mili collection, with diamonds set in textured, flowerlike 18K white gold settings.
- Gold wedding bands richly embellished with diamonds and colored stones in period-look designs are offered by Cathy Carmendy. One of her designs features raised fleurettes and squares studded with gems.
- A band entirely surrounded with diamonds is offered by Michael B. The matching engagement ring has a princess-cut center stone.
- The Lucida diamond ring, introduced by Tiffany & Co. just two years ago, already has become a classic, and this season there is a three-stone version. The distinction of the stone is that it has a high step-cut crown and wide pronounced corners. Light is carried through its brilliant-style pavilion.
- The Royal Asscher cut is a new version of the traditional emerald shape with a greater number of facets (74), a higher crown setting and steeper pavilion. This is an exclusive from M. Fabrikant & Sons.
- The Rand Diamond has a distinctive symmetical faceting and comes with a "birth certificate" from the manufacturer. That enables the buyer to know where the diamond originated and its journey through the manufacturing and retail processes. Rand guarantees its diamonds are "conflict free," meaning they were not involved in secret trading to finance terrorism. In the U.S., the diamonds are distributed by Codiam, Inc.
What to look for
You're paying a lot for your new family jewel. Do you know what you're getting?
If you're a novice, you can be taken by the glitter or brilliance of a stone. Or you can just be taken.
Expect an independent laboratory report, or certificate, for any worthwhile diamond purchase, says Gregory Sherman, director of marketing and education for EGL USA, one of the country's largest and oldest gemological institutions.
That certificate will give you, essentially, the product information you need to make an informed purchase. It will attest to the stone's genuineness and evaluate the factors that affect quality, beauty, and value. The certificate also will help you identify your gem if it is lost or stolen, so you can receive an equivalent gem as replacement.
EGL USA (EGL stands for European Gemological Laboratory) suggests what you should look for in a reliable diamond certificate:
- Date of report. There's a possibility that the diamond has been damaged since the report was issued. Ask your retailer to show how your diamond matches the certificate offered.
- Identification number. Consumers can check out individual certificates online via http://www.EGLUSA.com. Often this identification number can be found laser-inscribed on the diamond itself. If your stone doesn't have an inscribed number, ask your jeweler to have it done.
- It's the genuine article. Look for a statement that says that the diamond is genuine and whether it has been enhanced --meaning if it has been treated to fill fractures. Labs will not grade fracture-filled diamonds, though reports are issued about laser-drilled diamonds.
- Weight. The exact carat measurement must appear on the report.
- Shape and cut. The stone's shape (round, pear, oval) and its cutting style (brilliant or step-cut) are noted on the certificate.
- Measurements. Most labs measure diamonds in millimeters, most often to the hundredth. These exact dimensions are important for identification; it's unlikely that two diamonds will have identical weight and dimensions.
- Proportion. Good proportion, especially the depth and table percentages, affects the brilliance and fire of a diamond. Proportion may be as important as color and clarity grades, says EGL USA. "Diamonds that are cut to 'ideal' proportions can cost up to 25 percent more than diamonds with poor 'makes,"' says Sherman.
- Clarity and color grades. Familiarize yourself with the "4Cs." Most reputable jewelers, and EGL USA, have this information if you need a review.
- Fluorescence. Ask your jeweler to tell you what color the diamond fluoresces, if this quality is present.
After studying the certificate, don't think your purchase should be based solely on its findings. "It cannot replace a visual inspection of the diamond you are considering," says Sherman. "Some diamonds are beautiful even if they don't look good on paper."
Diamond certificates are not the same as guarantees, valuations, or appraisals. Keep in mind that diamond grading, like the cutting, is an art, says the organization.
On the phone and Web: 1-800-877-EGL-USA1 (ask for the diamond buyer's guide); http://www.EGLUSA.com.
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