The Four Cs

By The Associated Press

The four Cs -- cut, color, clarity, and carat -- are like an old song. They're familiar but worth reciting again, especially if you're about to buy that important diamond:

  • Cut is the most important of these, says the Diamond Information Center (the De Beers information arm), because the quality and design of the cut is what helps unleash the diamond's fiery sparkle. The standard for a well-cut stone, whatever its shape, is the right proportion of its 57 or 58 facets -- tiny planes cut at angles -- allowing a maximum amount of light to be reflected through the diamond. The skilled diamond cutter places each of the stone's facets and angles, which act as light-dispersing mirrors, in exact geometric relation to one another. Diamonds cut too shallow or too deep lose light through the side or bottom.
  • Color is more subjective. Are all diamonds white? Not really. All display barely perceptible tinges of color. The professionals grade stones according to their relative colorlessness. The scale begins with D grading (colorless) and move through the alphabet to Z. Expect to pay more for D, E, and F grades, but well-cut diamonds of all color grades can have plenty of dazzle. Some rare diamonds have a strong, pure color and are called "fancies."
  • Clarity is, obviously, how clear and free the stone is from naturally occurring inclusions, which can appear as tiny crystals, feathers or clouds and are called the diamond's natural birthmarks. Most diamonds have some inclusions, but they are microscopic and can be seen only under magnification. Diamonds with fewest inclusions are grade I1 or I3. The fewer inclusions, the rarer (and more expensive) the stone.
  • Carat is the weight of the diamond. A carat equals 0.2 grams or 1/142nd of an ounce. But your jeweler will refer to the stone's weight in terms of points: 100 points equal one carat; 50 points, a half-carat: and so on.

Many jewelry firms and gemological organizations offer pamphlets or kits to help bridal couples select their gems:

  • Diamond.com, an online organization, has a "How to Buy a Diamond" kit it calls the "Ice Box," which contains basic information about grading, a pretend ring and four pretend diamonds to try on for size, and a ring sizing guide. Potential customers also can go online to purchase and if they wish, design their own jewelry. The Steinmetz Group, a leading diamond group, is principal shareholder in the site, www.diamond.com. Log on to the site or call 1- 888-DIAMOND to request the complimentary kit.
  • The De Beers Web site, www.adiamondisforever.com, also has information and a "Design Your Own Engagement Ring" feature. For a booklet, "How to Buy Diamonds You'll Be Proud to Give," call 1-800-FOREVER.
  • Fortunoff has "The Book on Buying Diamonds." Call 1-800-FORTUNOFF; Web site is www.fortunoff.com.

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